Backyard Growing
Backyard growing is a broad subject, so it'll be cut down into several sections covered below, These sections will be:
Where, What, When and How, Which is;
Where
Where you have available to grow is the most important factor.
Certain plants can and cannot be grown outdoors,
This is due to the Climate and Weather in the area, Along with the amount of daylight hours and availability of light.
Summary:
Certain plants cannot grow in certain areas due to the weather and temperature being too cold for them to survive.
Plants also require specific amount of sunlight to thrive, Some being shade loving, others love full sun.
Your Soil type will affect how well your plants do, For example, carrots in heavy clay may be stunted whereas potatoes can do well, or a fruit tree will do poorly in sandy soil, due to the lack of available water and minerals.
The pH level of your soil will affect what you can grow as only certain plants can grow in acidic soils, whereas most prefer neutral soils.
The Drainage of your soils will affect water availability, Aeration, Root penetration and nutrient availabilty in your plants.
Climate
Click Here to see the USDA growing Zonemap of the UK, Which shows the growing zones of parts of the UK, These Zones are important as they show how the climate is different depending on your location and how that climate is suitable for different plants, Find your location on the Zonemap and use the RHS Hardiness sheet to assist with seeing what you're able to grow.
This Is only necessary for certain plants, Such as Cirtus plants which arn't Hardy in the UK as they need a minimum winter night temperature of 10°C (50°F) is needed for lemons and limes. Calamondin oranges need a minimum winter night temperature of 13°C (55°F). Although, They can be grown Outdoors in Summer In pots and brought Indoors during winter.
Certain varieties of Fig also struggle outdoors in parts of the UK and will require protection during winter.
Sunlight
Availability of light is an important factor in Backyard growing.
If your garden never sees an hour of sunlight throughout the day then you'll struggle to grow a great many things,
Luckily however many vegetables will grow quite happily on only 2-4 Hours of sunlight a day, For Example;
Brassicas such as Cabbage and Kale only need around 4 hours of light per day,
As does Swiss Chard, Lettuces, Radishes, Carrots, Rhubarb, Garlic, Broccoli, and Broad beans.
Certain plants however like as much light as they can get around 6-8 Hours a day, For example;
Green Beans, Chilli Peppers, Courgettes, Cucumbers, Tomatoes, Peppers, Squash, Potatoes and Corn
And certain Vegetables prefer partial sun, which is around 4-6 hours a day, for example;
Peas, Onions, Leeks, Beetroots.
Soil type
Different Plants prefer different soil types, As it will affect how they grow.
Soils can be different in many different ways, Such as;
Soil Texture
Soil texture is the method used to classify soils based on their physical texture based on their partical size as shown:
There are 11 different soil textures identified by the US classification system shown here, Which are;
sand, loamy sand, sandy loam, loam, silt loam, silt, sandy clay loam, clay loam, silty clay loam, sandy clay, silty clay, and clay.
This Texture triangle is important as it is one of the major identification methods of soils, used to determine the best plants for each site, The texture of soil also impacts several the other features of soils, for example, Clay soils have poorer drainage than sandy soils, but are more resistant to mineral leaching and erosion, and vice versa.
Different types of soil textures:
Clay:
Clay soils are often called heavy soils and contain over 30% clay particles overall, they have the following features;
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Clays swell and shrink as they wet and dry, effectively cultivating themselves.
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Clays are colder and will take longer to warm up in spring.
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Clays shape is easily damaged or altered when stepped on whilst wet (Never walk on wet clay soils!)
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Clays are water retaining so are more draught resistant than other soils.
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Clays are sticky and resist erosion better than other soils.
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They have low porosity so poor drainage and aeration, this also makes it harder for plant roots to establish.
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Clays are usually rich in nutrients but their availability to plants can sometimes be poor (see Cation exchange capacity)
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Clay soils are heavy and hard to work
Sand:
Sandy soils are often easier to work but dry out quickly and retain nutrients poorly, They have the following features;
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Sandy soils drain quickly.
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Sandy soils are susceptable to leaching and have poor nutrient retention.
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Sandy soils are very susceptable to erosion.
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Sandy soils warm up quickly and are often warmer.
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Sandy soils are often very acidic.
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Sandy soils have high drainage and aeration due to large pore spaces.
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Sandy soils are easy for plant roots to become established in.
Silt:
Silty soils are often fertile, and have decent moisture retention but are easily compacted, they have the following features;
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Silty soils are fertile and high in nutrients.
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Silty soils hold a good amout of moisture but also have good drainage.
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Silty soils are very prone to erosion.
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Silty soils have medium sized pore spaces leading to good aeration.
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Silty soils are easily compacted.
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Silty soils are easy for plant roots to become established in.
Loam:
Loamy soils are often the perfect balace point between the 3 soils types above, They have the following features;
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comprised of a mixture of clay, sand and silt, they avoid the extremes of clay or sandy soils.
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They are fertile,well-drained and easily worked.
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They can be clay-loam or sandy-loam depending on their predominant composition and cultivation characteristics
Identification:
There are several methods of identifying soil texture, such as;
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Hydrometer method. - This is an analysis method of suspending soil particles in liquid and calculating the density.
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Pipette method. (Very Scientific, not suitable for home testing)
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Sieve method.- Sieveing through a set of sieves to determine particle size.
Soil Shape
Soil Shape is an important factor as it affects soil drainage and the workability of the soil, as well as it's erosion resistance.
The Image above show the different types of soil shape and forms, and it has the following effects:
The more angular the grain shape, The better water is held within it in the form of hygroscopic water. Angular grains are also grippier and hold together better.
The form of the soils have a larger impact however;
Granular soils drain easily, but also allow roots to grow readily, they have high nutrient avaialbility but are prone to leaching.
Blocky Soils are more common in areas of clay, these clumps make for fairly good root access but have poorer drainage and nutrient availability.
Prismatic soils are usually found in clays as well, but deeper down, they are caused by the contraction and expansion of the soil, causing it to crack, Similar to columnar but not as severe.
Columnar soils are usually found in draught ridden places and very arid locations, not much can grow in this type of soil.
Platy soils are usuitable for growing in, this is caused by comapction, such as walking on soils when wet, and is especially prevelent in clay soils, even when digging is employed in clay soils, these 'pans' of clay will form at the base of where you dug, it causes a tonen fo issues including poor root penetration, terrible drainage / aeration and poor habitat for soil organisms, avoiding this type of soil form is on of the advantages of the no dig method.
Single grained soils have the opposite issue of platy soils, where they have terrible water retention, nutrients leach straight out of them and they are very susceptable to erosion, which the soils sometimes just blowing away.
Soil Mineral Content
Soil mineral content is important as it is literally plant food, Without minerals and nutrients, nothing would grow.
Mineral: A mineral is, broadly speaking, a solid chemical compound that occurs naturally in pure form. Minerals are most commonly associated with rocks due to the presence of minerals within rocks.
Nutrient: any substance (such as a chemical element or inorganic compound) that can be taken in by a green plant and used in organic synthesis
Major nutrients:
Nitrogen (N) - Encourages Vegetative growth, Important for leafy greens.
Phosphorous (P) - Important for root growth and fruit ripening.
Potassium (K) - Essential for good flower and fruit formation.
Magnesium (Mg) - Required for Photosynthesis and movement of phosphorus.
Calcium (Ca) - Required for activity in meristems and major part of cell walls, may be unavailable in acid soils.
Sulfur (S) - Required for Cholorphyll production, Used in Protein and Enzyme production, rarely deficient.
Minor nutrients:
Iron (Fe) - Required for Cholorophyll Production, Used in Enzymes.
Manganese (Mn) - Used in Cholorophyll production, Used in Enzymes.
Boron (B) - Makes calcium available within the plant, helps move sugars and synthesis of gibberelin.
Copper (Cu) - Involved in proper Enzyme function, rarely deficient.
Zinc (Zn) - Involved in Enzyme function and required for pollen production.
Molybdendum (Mo) - Helps with Nitrogen uptake and root nodule activity, rarely deficient.
Nutrient availabilty:
Soil acidity can affect the availabilty of nutrients
Nutrients restricted in acid soils:
Nitrogen
Calcium
Phosphorus
Nutrients restricted in alkaline soils:
Iron
Manganese
Zinc
Soil pH
Soil pH (a measure of acidity and alkalinity of a solution that is a number on a scale 1-14)
The pH of your soil is an important factor whilst growing as Certain plants will not grow outside of a certain pH range, In general most plants prefer neutral soils, Some however require a different pH;
Some of the very finest fruits come from the acid-loving berries, a family with members such as;
Blueberry, Raspberry, Cranberry, Lingonberry and Whinberry, and Citrus fruits.
All these grow naturally in acidic soils somewhere between pH 4.0 and 5.0.
Neutral soil has a pH of exactly 7.0, with acidic soils sitting below this level and alkaline soils above it.
Drainage
Water is a vital part of growing, Certain plants need much more water than others and some are draught resistant
Water is an important factor and is impacted by many things, for example;
If your garden features a gigantic tree,It will have an impact on the amount of water in your soils,
due to the tree roots drawing up massive amount of water, especially during summer.
Thirsty plants:
Tomatoes
Lettuce
Cabbage
Fruit trees
Strawberries
Draught resistant plants:
Mature Rhubarb
Legumes
Peppers
Chickpea
Lima Bean
Swiss chard
Factors affecting water availability:
Soil type - Clay soils retain more water but also make it harder for plants to get the weater from them, sandy soils have trouble retaining water but the water is easily absorbed by the plants when available.
Competing plants - Trees are the biggest culprit for this, Large mature trees take up gallons of water per day, meaning plants growing near their canopy have less chance to take up water before it's gone, Weeds can also cause this problem when widespread.
Slopes - Water runoff can be a problematic on steeply sloped areas, this is where the water instead of permeating into the ground, Mostly runs downhill due to gravity causing problems with erosion and a suprising lack of water in affected areas.
Ponds and hard landscaping - This such as ponds or patios have effects on water availability in gardens, this is due to the amount fo water runoff on patios can cause flooding in lower areas of the garden, Similarly, Ponds can flood affecting areas nearby.
Your soil drainage will also affect water availability, For example,
Clay soils retain lots of water but stay cold and are hard to work, creating pans when dug which create barriers that prevent water draining through.
Sandy soils poorly retain water but stay warm and easy to work, However they are suseptable to erosion and nutrient leaching.
The best soils are loams for this, they hold a good amount of water and nutrients, and are easily workable and don't form pans.
An example of a loam is Potting compost, with a high organic matter content.
Raised beds and Containers
If your back garden is a Patio or Yard, Consider using containers or Raised beds, these are commonly used in Backyard growing with available soils anyway, as they instantly create ideal workable soils for growing in.
Raised Beds:
These are structures that are often constructed from wooden boards or bricks in a rectangular or square shape at depths depending on where you have set them up, and your budget, for example, Raised beds built on usable soil will be shallower than ones built on top of tiles or paving as plant roots can evenutally travel down through the bed into the soil below, whereas on ones built on paving they cannot. Raised beds are one of the most effective ways to instantly create a growing area.
Remember: the deeper your raised bed, the better your result but the more expensive it will be to fill with compost / soil.
The RHS has a brilliant guide on raised beds here: https://www.rhs.org.uk/Advice/profile?PID=428
Containers:
Containers are be a multitude of sizes, depending on what they are meant to grow, From massive tree planters, to small strawberry pots, your containers should have a width and depth of at least 50cm ideally. Fill them with sterilised potting composts such as john innes no3 or organic peat free composts.
Containers are one of the easiest ways to grow at home, Giving you control over the growing medium, location, ect.
they also have the benefit of making it harder for pests to reach.
The RHS has a fantastic guide on contianer growing here : https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?pid=527
What
There are a multitude of fruit and vegetables that can be grown outdoors in the UK, And even more that can be grown under glass.
Here is a list of UK hardy fruit and vegetables, Which will last all throughout winter:
Sprouts
Cabbage
Kale
Leeks
Broccoli
Parsnips
Here is a list of Seasonal fruit and veg growable in the UK:
Broad Beans
Cauliflower
Chard
Chinese Broccoli
Courgettes
Cucumbers
Jeruselem Artichoke
Bell Peppers
Salsify
Turnip
Asparagus
Beetroot
Celery
Fennel
Leeks
Lettuce
Rocket
Shallots
Celeriac
Chillies
Chinese Cabbage
Garlic
Globe Artichoke
Mizuna
Apples
Blueberries
Cherries
Blackberries
Kiwi
Mulberries
Plums
Pears
Peaches
Raspberries
Potatoes
Pumpkins
Spring Onions
Soy Beans
Aubergenes
Brussels Sprouts
Carrots
French beans
Pak Choi
Parsnips
Peas
Radishes
Spinach
Squash
Swede
Tomatoes
Broccoli
Marrow
Onions
Rhubarb
Runner Beans
Sweet Potatoes
Sweetcorn
Kale
Gooseberries
Redcurrants
Blackcurrants
Citrus
Grapes
Melons
Strawberries
Apricots
Figs
Olives
List of herbs that can be grown in the UK
Basil
Chives
Coriander
Parsley
Mint
Sage
Fennel
Rosemary
Thyme
Here is a link to a Great RHS Herb Growing guide: https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=679
When
Here are a few planting planners for creating your own vegetable garden.
Here is the RHS vegetable planner, A good resource for when to begin plants.
Here is a link to another RHS planting planner about growing times: https://schoolgardening.rhs.org.uk/Resources/Info-Sheet/Vegetable-crop-planner
Here is a planting planner from No-Dig gardener Charles Dowding, It goes into more depth covering a greater range of plants and shows plants that should be protected from frost when planted out.
Bearing in mind that Charles' Planner is aimed at more experienced growers with a wider range of resources, Beginners would likely prefer the RHS planner for their first attempts.
How
This will explain the following:
Propagation
Transplanting / Pricking Out
Plant Spacing / Companion Planting
Propagation
Propagation is the process of creating new plants, Either from Seed, Cuttings or Layering.
Seeds:
Seeds can be sown either indoors or outdoors when the soil has warmed up enough during spring.
Seeds sown indoors are often sown into cell trays, Seed trays or Pots before being pricked out and transplanted outside.
Plants are commonly sown into seed trays, Which are shallow rectangular trays filled with compost which are meant to provide the initial environment for germination, especially when coupled with a Propagator lid (A clear plastic lid) which causes it to act more like a greenhouse, speeding up germination and growth.
Seeds trays work well due to;
Plants can be sown very densely in seed trays are plants are easy to prick out once germinated, this allows for growing more plants in a smaller area, so perfect for windowsill growing.
Seed trays are easy to clean afterward, making them easily reusable, plus they tend to be made of sturdier plastic than cell trays.
Cell trays have the benefits of;
they have clear boundaries allowing for a clear amount of plants to be planted, they make transplanting very simple as the roots develop seperate rootsetock to the others, which limits shock when transplanting and avoids root tangles.
Another common method of swing seed is in pots, where they will be grown in situ and weaker plants will be pricked out to give space to the stronger plants.
The RHS has a guide for seeds here: https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?pid=501
Another method of Propagation is Cuttings.
Cuttings are selected bit of plant material which are cut off the parent plant and made to root in a medium of some kind.
The benefits of cuttings is that it creates a genetic clone of the parent plant, meaning the plant will share the same charecteristics, it also speeds up the propagation process as the shoots taken for cuttings tend to be young and vigorous, producing roots and forming small plants much faster than seed grown plants, which must germinate, be pricked out then planted out ect. it is also a fairly cheap method, as provided you already have the parent plant, you simply have to provide the growing medium to get another plant, instead of buying seeds AND the medium.
The RHS has a fantastic guide all about cuttings here: https://www.rhs.org.uk/Advice/profile?PID=999
Here I will focus on basic cutting techniques that are easy for beginners and can be done at home.
Primarily these are tip cuttings, either softwood, hardwood or semi ripe. I'll be focusing on softwood cuttings for now.
Take your cutting in the morning when the plant is turgid and full of water ( ensure it was watered the night before ) from a healthy parent plant, The cutting will be taken from the vigorous new growth at the top of the stem, for my example, Basil, this is about the top 2 inches of the plant. Ensure you collect non flowering shoots as the flowers redirect energy from the root production.
My method was water propagation, where the cutting is rooted in water, then planted out into soil once established, this process took about a week to create an entire new basil plant, whereas my basil seeds, only 2 have germinated so far and are miniscule in comparison. For plants such as Herbs, This is my favourite method of Propagation, As I find that seeds are tricky to get established, especially regarding pests such as greenfly, so the faster your plant is established, the better.
The RHS has a guide on Herb propagation here: https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?pid=639
Layering is a Propagation method best used on suckering fruit plants, Such as Raspberries and Blackberries or Strawberries.
Layering involves taking a Vigorous shoot from the parent plant and instead of cutting it off, Bending it down into the soil and either burying a length of stem of pinning it to the ground, The area touching the ground will be wounded where the outer bark is scraped or cut away which allows the area to root.
The benefits of layering is that the young plant will remain joined to the parent plant and be fed by its main rootstock whilst becoming established, This creates a rather stable propagation method with a high success rate. the downside is that It takes up a decent amount fo room, with the plants spreading out along the ground.
Here is a RHS guide to layering: https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=358
Transplanting
Transplanting and pricking out are two very important parts of the growing process, It allows plants the correct amount of space and room to grow properly.
Transplanting is the act of moving plants into their final growing locations, This is especially prevelent in vegetable growing where many plants will be germinated indoors when it is still too cold at night for small plants, then move the plants outdoors once hardened off and large enough / the nighttime temperature is frost free. Plants are vunerable when transplanted due to changes in environment causing shock, plus new threats from drought and pests. All plants should be properly hardened off before transplanting, this is the process of aclimatising plants to the temperature of their final locations, Done by moving the plants outside during the day when it is warm then indoors at night, then outside during the day and under cover in a cold frame at night, then finally outside both day and night.
The RHS has a fantastic guide on transplanting here, Including problem plants and methodology:
https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?pid=721
Pricking out
Pricking out is the process of moving seedlings from crowded seed trays to either pots or cell trays, giving them more room to grow unhindered, Otherwise the crowded plants will compete for light and nutrients and it will be detrimental to all plants, and cause many to die.
Pricking out has 3 basic rules;
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Never grab the stem, Only hold the seedling by the leaves.
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Use a dibber or similar item to dig under and lift the plant from below, helping release the root.
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Plant the seedling up to its leaves, burying the stem below ground, this will create a better rootstock.
Here is a step by step guide on pricking out:
https://schoolgardening.rhs.org.uk/Resources/Sequence-Card/How-to-prick-out-seedlings-into-modules
Plant spacing / Companion Planting
The spacing of crops is determined by the ultimate height and spread of the crop. There is the space between the seeds or plants along the row and then the space between rows.
Space is needed for weeding along and between rows, to create good air circulation and to allow each crop to grow to its determined size.
Here are two guides from the RHS on plant spacings in Allotment styles and Raised bed styles
Credit for this image goes to the RHS
Credit for this image goes to the RHS
The RHS has an amazing guide about plant spacing and locations, Here is a link:
https://schoolgardening.rhs.org.uk/Resources/Info-Sheet/Vegetable-crop-planner